Distance: 19.1km / 11.9 miles
Total ascent: 649m / 2131ft
Maps: OS Explorer 315 (Carlisle), OS Landranger 86 (Haltwhistle & Brampton)
Link to route in OS Maps: https://www.ordnancesurvey.co.uk/osmaps/route/6930599/Cardunnth-Pike-Talkin-Fell
The North Pennines have their occasional honeypots, but Geltsdale isn’t one of them. The RSPB reserve is known for being one of the few places in England to see breeding hen harriers, despite pressure from illegal persecution here. Apart from a few weekend strollers between Gairs (NY 58231 55656) and the river Gelt, it’s quiet country.
Look out for red squirrels, particularly around Jockey Shield.
A brief note on the photos: not all of these were taken on the same day or even at the same time of year, mainly because I didn’t intend to publish them. Photos for the section before Gairs were taken in spring, and those after in autumn. Think of them as progressing from one season to another, via summer.
Parking available at Jockey Shield, NY 55791 55534. An infrequent bus (680) serves Castle Carrock from Carlisle and Alston.
Be aware that:
- the route as far as NY 56123 53004 is largely pathless, stileless and gateless, and the ground can be rough underfoot. But it is nice.
- the diversion from the path over Cumrew Fell to Cardunneth Pike crosses open access land and dogs are not allowed here – only on Public Rights of Way (the Croglin estate is a grouse moor).
Route description:
From Jockey Shield, walk back along the road towards Castle Carrock, with views towards the Border on your right. Turn left through a wooden gate, which is opposite a metal gate on your right. It’s also the first gate on your left.
Aim slightly right on the footpath, and aim for the disused quarries. Skirt these to the left hand-side and head uphill towards the wall which runs NE-SW. Climb over where it is easiest.
Turn right, and keep this wall on your right until you reach the wall corner. Turn left here, and follow the wall until the ground begins to descend – you should be able to see a path on the far side of the dip; aim for this through heather and rocks. The path skirts the next slope and allows an easier, if not easy, route to the wall at around NY 55698 54407. The path does note take you right to the wall, but will take you most of the way – bear right when you are almost there and, again, climb over the wall where it is easiest.
Head straight uphill, aiming for the cairn at Hespeck Raise (NY 55947 53784). This involves another climb over a stone wall, but you can then follow this wall, keeping it on your left, until you reach a gate at NY 56123 53004. Go through this gate.
Follow the track to the trig point at NY 56314 52508.
Cumrew Fell trig point, looking West
Turn right and follow the wall downhill slightly, then aim for the impressive structure of Cardunneth Pike, at NY 55874 52064. Continue along the edge of the moor until you reach another wall, and follow this back to the path at around NY 56433 51973. Cardunneth Pike is thought to be a Bronze Age burial site, but this hasn’t been confirmed.
Cardunneth Pike. Below: the view from the Pike
Follow the path along the top of Cumrew Fell. As it descends, a turning off to the right at NY 5690 5086 should be ignored. Pass grouse butts and eventually a shooting box.
Descending Cumrew Fell
On reaching the bottom, turn left. Follow the path towards Elter Beck and cross the bridge at NY 5789 5155.
Elter Beck
Cross the bridge and follow the path through a gate. Continue on this path, passing underneath Windy Bank. Ignore a left turn as the beck comes into sight at NY 5823 5309, and cross another bridge at NY 5855 5328.
Continue along the path, keeping left at NY 5880 5340 to pass underneath Tarnmonath Fell.
Turn off, left, at NY 5839 5548 to Gairs. Continue past Gairs and cross How Gill. Continue along the path until NY 5787 5530, where you can turn right to ascend Simmerson Hill (you can avoid Talkin Fell and Simmerson Hill by continuing along the track, which takes you to the River Gelt and the bridleway underneath Jockey Shield).
Looking up Geltsdale from the lower track (for those who bypass Simmerson Hill and Talkin Fell)
To climb Simmerson Hill, follow the faint path almost straight up. This turns left near the top to follow a delightful path along the edge. A diversion to the summit can be made, but the path does not head to the very top.
On Simmerson Hill
The path drops down to a sometimes wet hollow at NY 5741 5623. The path here can often be difficult to find in the wet ground, but aim to keep to the left of the fence, at the top of which is a stile.
Cross over the stile and follow the now clear path heading roughly uphill and leftwards. Another stile in the wall to your left takes you to the top of Talkin Fell, with wonderful extensive views.
Talkin Fell
Turn back and return over the stile, and along the path to the stile at NY 5714 5622.
Keep the wall to your right and head downhill. You will soon reach the track at 5719 5593.
Turn right and follow this track, turning left into a small woodland at NY 5587 5612
Descend through the trees and emerge through a gate at Low Hynam. Cross the bridge over the River Gelt.
Follow the tarmacked bridleway uphill to Jockey Shield.
On the shoulders of John Muir 